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  DIY: Canzoomer (Stage 1) setup and install for the RX-8.
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| Jason |
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Site Admin
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 184
Location: North America
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Introduction:
CZ is an ECU piggyback for the RX-8. It is basically a Greddy E-Manage in a custom metal box with custom harnesses that allow you to plug it into your RX-8 without cutting any wires. It also comes with a tuned map that will help you get started on tuning your car. What the CZ will allow you to do is modify your fuel and ignition timing, letting you lean/richen fuel, advance/retard timing.
I was actually one of the many people who didn't think the CZ worked, or was worthwhile in buying. There had been so many people who had fried coils, idle issues, and others who claimed there was no gains from the unit. It sounded like a mess. What changed my mind was the new CZ units (group buy #2 and after) which had the coil fixes in place. The idle fix (described at the bottom of this page) were easy to do it yourself (just cut two diodes), and as far as gains, well, I'll explain why most didn't see any gains: The reason for this is the maps shipped are tuned - but are safely tuned. Not all RX-8's are the same, in fact almost every RX-8 is different. A map that works for one car isn't going to work for the next. If the CZ was shipped with a really lean map, it might work well on some cars, but it also might damage other cars. So the map that comes with CZ will give you only slight gains at best. This problem is easily fixed by tuning your own map!
Since the CZ 1.1 unit comes with basically no documentation, one has to literally comb through the RX8 forums to find tidbits of information here and there. The goal of this page is to show what is involved and explain how things work to someone who has no idea how to tune the RX-8 with a CZ 1.1.
First off, you need to buy a Canzoomer (CZ) 1.1 unit. A new unit will run around $550, a used unit around $250. If you want to buy new, visit http://www.canzoomer.com and look at the price list.
What you'll want is the CZ unit itself, but you're flying blind with just the unit. This is because you cannot see what your car is doing, and you can't make any changes.
To make changes to your CZ 1.1, you'll need the usb kit and software (also sold on the canzoomer.com website). It will run $75 new, or $50 used. The usb kit will connect to the CZ itself and let you make changes to the map settings using the included software.
HOWEVER, you're still flying blind as you can't see what your doing! All you can do is make changes, so it's similar to driving in the dark, you can turn the steering wheel, but you have no clue where you're going.
You need the CanScan unit to read what your car is doing. The CanScan connects directly to your car to a plug that is located next to the hood release. You can buy the canscan from the canzoomer website, or directly from http://www.ghgcorp.com/dharrison for about $40 less. Keep in mind the dharrison canscan is serial, so you'll need to drop another $30 for a serial->usb connector at compusa if your laptop has no serial port.
If you plan on modifying your car settings while sitting in your car, you'll also need a 10' long USB extension cord. This will let you run the CZ usb cable into the car. A USB extension cord will run about $20 at bestbuy/walmart/compusa/etc.
Once you have your CZ, usb kit, and canscan, you're ready to rock and roll!
Getting started:
The first thing I recommend you do is run your car without the CZ unit to get a base map to base your future changes on, and to see if the CZ unit does anything when you later install it.
To find out what your car is doing, connect your CanScan to your car. Just plug it under the dash (next to the hood release) and the other end to your laptop (or palm).
Logging with CanScan, and finding your AFR settings:
Once you hook up your CanScan, launch the OBDScan software. Click on "Data Monitor and Log", and select MultiView.
Now pick the following items in the pulldowns: Engine RPM, Ignition Advance, Throttle Position, O2S1 Position, Speed. and check off "5" items on the bottom.
Now drive your car around and make sure the engine is warmed up. Your car is warmed up about 5 minutes AFTER the coolant gauge has reached mid level. Once your car is warmed up, click on 'start logging' and shift into first, get going to about 15 mph. Now, shift into second and continue going 15. Once your foot is all the way off the clutch, floor the accelerator. Make sure your foot is all the way down. This is so we can log the WOT (Wide open throttle) information. Once your car redlines, you can let off the gas and save the current log.
Once you're off the road, load up Excel. Use Excel to open the log you just created in CanScan. It will ask you a few questions, make sure you tell it that the log file is comma delimited.
The excel page should look something like this:
Code: Throttle Position ------ ,
O2S1 Sensor ----------- ,
Speed ------------------ ,
Air Flow --------------- ,
Elapsed Time
3322.25 44 16 0.996008 15.25 15.68 0.234
3326.25 44 16 0.9929885 14.64 15.05 0.344
3323 44 16 0.9921345 14.64 15.82 0.437
3325.5 44 16 0.992409 15.25 16.31 0.547
3323 44 16 0.9907315 14.64 15.75 0.672
3319.25 44 16 0.9884745 14.64 15.61 0.781
We need to convert the O2S1 sensor numbers into a usable format. So pick a new cell anywhere in Excel, and type in 14.63. Now select 14.63, and hit control+C to copy it. Now highlight all items in the O2S1 sensor column, and right click -> Paste Special. Select multiply, and it will update the numbers into numbers in the 11-15 range (in the next paragraph I explain how to use my excel macros to speed up this process). This number is your AFR. The ideal AFR number is 14.6. So the closer to this, the better. The lower this number, the richer your car is running, and thus less horse power and higher fuel usage. Your CZ unit will override the RX-8's ECU to adjust the fuel/air mixture by telling the car less air is coming in, and thus it injects less fuel.
Rather than getting into how to use these numbers to create an excel graph, you can download a graph made by Magic8 (with some modifications I made) here: http://rotaryinsider.com/files/canscan_graph.xls
Inside the canscan_graph.xls, you'll see three tabs.The first tab shows a graph of the data you enter, the second tab is where you enter your data, and the third page is misc notes that I saved from when I was doing research on tuning the CZ. I also added some macros into the excel sheet to speed up our graphing. Go to your CanScan log opened in Excel, and look at your RPM values. Look for values that are above 4500 rpm, with the throttle at it's highest position. In my canscan logs, 100% throttle is written as 78%. Select the first four columns of every row that match this description. Basically what you're doing is picking the values at the height of your run. Now paste your RPM, Advance, Throttle, and AFR (O2S1) into the "Data" page. If the data page already has data, you'll need to hit control+x to clear it. To paste, hit control+v. To format the AFR into the correct value, hit control+z.Now your graph is done. Select the "graph" tab to see the results.
Here is my run without the CZ installed. As you can see from the AFR (yellow line), my car runs really rich after 6,000 rpm.
Installing the CZ:
Visit this page for a step by step instruction on installing your CZ into your RX-8: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=18394
Now that your CZ is installed, follow the same steps you took in the "Logging with CanScan, and finding your AFR settings" section, and graph what the stock CZ map does with your car. Here is my CZ results. As you can see, it's a bit better, but still running into the 11's. So it will need additional tweaking.
Setting up your CZ software:
To modify your CZ settings, you'll need to plug the usb plug into the CZ, and the other end into your laptop. Make sure you install the software that came with the usb cable. If you plug in your computer and can't get the "GReddy e-manage support tool" to see anything, you'll have to go to Start -> Settings -> Control Panel -> System -> Hardware -> Device Manager -> Ports (Com & Lpt). Select the usb port, and change it in the Advanced tab to Com2, or whatever unused Com port you can select. Now you can load the e-manage software and select Option -> COM Port, and select the port you set.
Once your car is connected, you'll need to calibrate your throttle, since the CZ unit reacts based on throttle position. Hit Control+Q to open the Parameter setting page, and on the bottom, click the Throttle Setting button. The program will walk you through the throttle calibration process. Make sure your car is OFF when you do the calibration, you don't want to be reving the crap out of your car 
Now, you can try graphing your CZ again to see if that helped it become more active.
Modifying your CZ map:
To download the map that is in the CZ unit, hit Control+W. If it asks for a password, enter "ltdii"
In the MAP SELECT area, use the pull down to open the first listed map. You'll see something like this:
The higher the number, the less fuel is given to the car, which raises your AFR values. What you will need to do is tweak these numbers so that your AFR line is around 14.6. The problem is, at higher RPM, you don't want to have it that lean or you risk your car pinging. So for the higher RPM's, aim for 13.2 range. 13.7 if you want to be more aggressive. You will gain ~25hp with a 13.2 AFR, and ~45hp with a 13.7 AFR over stock. The leaner you run your car, the more power, but also the hotter the cat gets, so your stock cat may only last 60,000 miles instead of 120,000 as regulation requires.
Once you make changes, there is no need to export data to the unit. As you make changes to the map, it uploads them. To verify this for yourself, simply make a number change, close the emanage software, tell it you don't want to save changes to a file. Then reload it and import the data from the unit. You'll see the change you made saved in the unit.
If you wish to disable the password lock, go to 'settings' -> 'security settings', click ok without entering any pass, then it will prompt you for a pass, enter ltdii and click okay. now it is unlocked.
Here is the current map I'm using:
While the excel graph will help you get an idea of the general overview of what's going on with your car, I recommend looking at the data itself when figuring out how to tweak your CZ map. This is because the graph isn't as accurate as the raw data. When looking at the data, what you should be looking at are the rows that your CZ lets you modify. All the values in between the rpm levels you modify are smoothed out. For example, if you have 10 for 5600 rpm, and 20 for 5800, at 5700 your CZ will interpolate and use 15. So what you are doing is looking for values that need modification, and finding the nearest row that will allow you to make the required change. For example, below graph shows the RPM values in the CZ map that I can tweak:
In the above example, if my goal was to hit 13 AFR, I'd raise 5200 rpm value in the E-Manage by one, then upload the changes to the CZ, run the car with canscan logging, graph the results, and see if that was enough to hit 13. If not, keep raising 5200 until the target AFR has been hit.
Modifying your CZ:
If your buying a used CZ, anything made before group buy #2 should be sent back to Canzoomer for upgrades (unless of course they already have the upgrades). This is because the units prior had issues such as burning your coils. The upgrade cost is about $60. If you burn your coils, they are about $40 each (you'll need two).
In the following diagram, I will explain how to do the "idle fix" and full rpm modification. The group buy #2 and previous CZ's had problems with rough idles. Cutting out the two orange diodes will fix the idle situation.
When tuning your CZ, it can be a pain to have to convert your half rpm CZ to full rpm when looking at what points need to be updated in the maps. Locate the brown wire that is at the half RPM hole on the daughter board, flip the board over, and while pulling on the brown wire, use a soldering iron to melt the solder till the wire breaks free. Now position the brown wire into the full RPM hole, and solder it in place. You will have to update the scale on all your maps (ignition and timing) to double the numbers. Use "map trace" to make sure the CZ unit reads full rpm before you start going nuts
Also, if you feel some lugging when accelerating, look at your ignition map and the change the first vertical row to 0's.
Updating your CZ software/firmware:
If you wish to update your CZ's firmware and software, download this zip file: http://rotaryinsider.com/files/cz_firmware.zip
You will need to place the "projectGSC.exe" and "GSC_SW.DAT" files into the location that you installed the E-Manage software - default location is "C:/Program%20Files/TRUST/GReddy%20e-manage%20support%20tool". Make sure the e-manage program is not running when you do this. Now load up e-manage and go to help->version to verify that you're upgraded to v1.13.
The other file, "GSC01.p" is the CZ firmware. This is v1.39. Unzip it to your desktop or some other location that you can easily get to. In E-Manage, connect to your CZ, select "Communication"->"Main unit update", and then find the GSC01.p file. The update will take about 3 minutes. If it gets stuck, you can switch off your car, and restart E-manage software and try again. If the file is corrupted, you may need to download it again.
In the future, if there are additional updates, you can grab them from http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage (near the bottom with the FAQs) |
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| mike |
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Joined: 09 Aug 2007
Posts: 16
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| I have a 07 AT. will the can zoomer work. |
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| Jason |
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Site Admin
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 184
Location: North America
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| I would recommend the new EMU over the old CZ units. |
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| mike |
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Joined: 09 Aug 2007
Posts: 16
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| wich would be better the emanage ultimate or intercepter x |
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