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  DIY: Sohn OMP adapter
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| Jason |
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Site Admin
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 184
Location: North America
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The Sohn adapter is basically a metal slab with a few holes in it, and a nozzle that can connect to a hose.
The point of this adapter, is to stop using engine oil to lubricate the apex seals in your rotary engine. This is a good thing because:
1. Your engine will no longer burn oil from the engine
2. Your seals can be given fresh oil that isn't dirty
3. You can feed your seals 2 stroke oil, which is meant to be burned.
4. If you're a firm believer that you can't use synthetic oil because it's bad for the seals, using synthetic oil will no longer an issue because your motor oil isn't being used for seal lubrication!
First off, you're going to need the adapter, it costs about $100, and you'll have to get it directly from Richard's website (or email him): http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_injector_pump_adaptors.htm
It took about 3 days for me to get the adapter.. I also bought a bit of clear hose, a matching nozzle, and some sealant paste.
Now, before you do anything, you're going to need to remove your car battery. Even if you haven't done it before, it's a cake walk. Just remove the neg batt terminal, the pos terminal, take out the batt, and take out the batt base. Once it's out of the way, you'll see the OMP, located just to the left of the engine. You'll also see some clear tubes:
You'll need to unhook the black coolant hose next to the OMP tubes, so that you can move the OMP tubes to the left of the hose. Because of this, you will need to make sure your car is cooled down and the coolant is room temp. I unhooked the coolant hose and the coolant kept pouring, so be quick with this step. When you're done, it'll look like this:
Now we're at the hard part. This step can take you just a few minutes to several hours. In my case, I had to remove my front bumper, so I could remove my turbo intake pipes and the pipes leading from the turbo so I could get access to the OMP from underneath the car. I also had to remove the bottom engine tray.
The OMP is attached by 3 bolts. One is reachable from on top, the other two I had to crawl under the car to unbolt. The lower bolt I could see, the second one I had to feel for.
At any rate all you need to do is unbolt the OMP, then reinstall the OMP - but with the Sohn Adapter in between the engine and the OMP. The Adapter will block the engine oil from reaching the OMP. There is a rubber gasket that seals the OMP oil input... if that gasket falls out, make sure you reinstall it! Without it your car will leak oil.
Once the adapter is installed, you're going to need a source to hold the oil and feed it to the adapter. The easiest solution is to drill a hole in the bottom of your windshield washer fluid bottle and fill it up with 2 stroke oil.
The washer fluid bottle is a great choice since it is designed to hold liquid, not slosh around, and has a tiny pin hole in the cap to allow the container to not create a vacuum as the liquid is used up. I am strongly considering buying the 2006+ washer bottles since they're transparent. They run about $60 from mazda dealers.
I used a standard vacuum tube with a screw in it to plug up the normal exit of the washer bottle.
Just route the hose to the adapter after filling the bottle with 2 stroke oil, and connect it to the adapter.
The final product will look like this:
I like royal purple for synthetic oil - for the transmission/diff, engine and for 2 stroke oil. Karl has a decent price, with shipping included:
http://www.karlracing.com/html/2-cycle_tcw_lll.html |
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| david8 |
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Joined: 17 Jul 2008
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| So the short of this is that using the two stroke oil will increase the life of the apex seals? |
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| Jason |
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Site Admin
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 184
Location: North America
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| yes, no dirty engine oil being used. and allows you to run synthetic oil in the rotary without worry because none of the oil enters the chamber where oil is burned. |
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| david8 |
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Joined: 17 Jul 2008
Posts: 47
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| Should I not be running synthetic? I have been using Castrol full syn since I bought it |
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| Jason |
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Site Admin
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 184
Location: North America
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most synthetic is OK, there are reports that one or two brands cause issues, but no concrete proof.
in the old rotarys, synthetic ate away at the seals, so there's a lot of old wives tails out there about never using synthetic in a rotary.
i like royal purple, but it's not cheap. about $6.50 a quart. |
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| david8 |
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Joined: 17 Jul 2008
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| Is there anything that is cheap for an RX8? ha ha i will look into getting Royal purple as well I have seen on different sites that Royal purple is the way to go. This doesn't really have anything to do with the oil But i looked at the picture of your RX8 and the parts list where did you get your break rotors from? |
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| Jason |
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Site Admin
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 184
Location: North America
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| racing brake brand rotors. was about $650 shipped for the set |
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